Monday, September 13, 2010

The emergence of the gringos

We're only into day 4 of our year-long trip, and already I've had enough thoughts to fill up a novel. Not sure where to start, so I will start with what is most prevalent in my mind.

A few days before we left, a friend asked me what creature comfort I would miss most during our travels. I wasn't quite sure how to answer, and mumbled something about safety. It turns out that the answer became abundantly clear to me on our very first day: hot water. The water system in Ecuador is... well, I don't want to say "abysmal," since the rest of the world will probably be even worse, but it definitely leaves a lot to be desired. However, the benefit of this is that my showers are down to about 10 minutes. We're saving the environment through sheer discomfort.

Another interesting aspect of the water system that's taken a few days to get used to: the pipes are so weak in Ecuador, that you're not allowed to throw toilet paper into the toilet, or the toilet will overflow. Instead you have to throw it into the trash can. At first this seemed really gross -- especially since I forgot a few times -- but after only a few days it seems almost normal. (Almost.)


However, all of that aside, it's been a marvelous trip so far. Quito was beautiful, and more rich and modern than I expected. It's divided up into 2 sections - Old Town, and New Town. Old Town is quite charming - post-colonial architecture, cobble-stone streets, and a view of The Virgen de Quito from everywhere. Plus, right next to our hostel was a gorgeous 115m tall gothic basilica that was so huge I couldn't even take a proper picture of it. Of course, we decided to climb to the very top of it on our first day in Quito. The sheer terror of climbing up rickety ladders at this height, combined with our altitude sickness, ensured that my legs were screaming at me when we came down. But wow, it was worth it. Such cool views, and such an adrenaline rush.

 

The main feeling so far: everywhere I go, I feel like a bumbling gringo (in a good way). For example, to go explore New Town yesterday, we decided to take the Trole bus. These buses are only 25 cents and go quite fast, so they're VERY VERY packed. So much so, that when you're exiting, you have to literally elbow your way through people. I guess Ross is more assertive about this sort of thing than I am, because he got to the door just fine, while I got stuck in the crowd. I was still about 4 feet from the door when the doors started to close. I panicked a bit and shouted "Ross! Wait!" and reached my hand out to him. He reached for my hand and started pulling me through the crowd of people, while the people on the bus were pushing me forward! With this teamwork (people here are so friendly) I was able to get out. I think my elbows are going to get a good workout on this trip.

Another example: When we finally got off the Trole, we decided to get some lunch. Lunch is the only meal that we have to get ourselves because we get breakfast and dinner at the hostel. We were trying to decide what to get, but didn't know what many of the words on the menu were. Unfortunately the dictionary we got isn't very good for food - most of the words we tried to look up weren't even in there. So we tried to order the cheapest thing on the menu, which was a portion of "merenza." Somehow we figured that this was probably vegetables, so it seemed safe. The waitress looked at us funny and made up a silly story about how you can only get merenza by itself between Monday and Friday. We figured she was just trying to get us to order something more expensive, so instead we ordered rice, with fish, and merenza. When the meals came, it turned out that merenza was a side of beans. So we had basically been trying to order a side of beans for lunch! Again we laughed about that for a long time (and at that point realized why the waitress was trying to get us to order something else - she was actually trying to help us!) That's right about the time that we came up with the name of this blog.

On Sunday they close down the streets to cars and you're free to walk (or bike) all along the streets. This was really nice, because there's so much traffic normally that it was great to be able to enjoy the cute architecture without all the smog in your face. We were also surprised by the fact that there were performances going on all around the city. We saw 4 different bands playing, dancers doing an indigenous-looking dance, and even skateboarders showing off! I really enjoyed this tradition. It made me wish that Vancouver did something like that once a week. It felt very alive!

On our last day in Quito we finally went up to see La Virgen de Quito up close. I was most surprised to see that, in addition to all the tourists and locals hanging out up there, there were lots and lots of dogs. Probably around 20 or more were running around. I asked the bathroom attendant why there were so many dogs. She said that when people don't want their dogs, they drop them here. They are then given food and water by the tourists and by the employees, they are neutered, and (if I understood her Spanish correctly) they check up on them every 3 months to make sure they're healthy. Overall it doesn't seem like such a bad life, even though they're stray.

I think my favorite part about Quito has been the hostel. It's such a fun place to be and it's so easy to meet people here (plus, the view is indescribable). Before we left, everyone kept telling us that you inevitably meet lots of cool people when you travel. I was a bit worried about this at the time, because I know both Ross and I can be a bit shy and anti-social at times. But somehow it just happens, and it's wonderful.

The first 2 nights I was going a bit insane living in dorms. It turns out that having personal space is important! Who knew? Now, 4 days later, I don't mind the dorms so much. The secret, in case anyone is wondering, is lots and lots of baggies. I got a baggie for my tops, a baggie for my pants and undies, a baggie for my morning/evening toiletries, a baggie for my shower toiletries, a baggie for my laundry... It sounds silly, but it's the only way to stay sane when you're unable to unpack and lay out your stuff. I swear by baggies now.

Our last night in Quito, we decided to book another night in the hostel (we weren't ready to leave yet), so we decided to splurge on a private room for the night. It felt so luxurious, even though it was just a bed in a room. But it's your own bed, and your own space, with no other people in the bunk underneath you, and you don't have to worry about waking people up - pure luxury! Oh for priorities shifting.

Now we're in a city called BaƱos. This city has hot springs, a huge waterfall, and you can also do sports like zip-lining, mountain biking or water rafting for very cheap. We are planning on meeting up with a couple we met a few days ago in the hostel and going rafting with them. Looking forward to soaking in some HOT water!


7 comments:

  1. oh, wow, you started out in a dorm room - respect! :) And yes, it's amazing how your priorities shift, while you're traveling. :)
    Anyway, this all sounds awesome, keep writing :)

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  2. I am so very much enjoying reading your blog! I'm so glad you guys are making the time to write about your experiences! And you should really write in as much detail as you can. Even those single, random, and irrelevant-to-everything-else-you're-writing thoughts. Who knows? They may emerge as part of a theme later. You'll be glad you did if you get serious about writing a book once you get back! But mostly it's a good idea because KATHY wants to know and THAT is still more important than hot water and privacy!!! :D
    By the way, a good friend of mine is from Peru. Since that's your next stop, let me know if you'd like me to ask him about places there that he would recommend you visit.
    I miss you guys so much! And I love you tons! I'll be reading your blog constantly! Take care!
    Love,
    KAAAAAAATHYYYYYYY!
    P.S. The background picture you guys have on this website - is this a picture of your dorm or someplace in Ecuador you guys went to?

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  3. Kathy - I miss you toooooo!!! I'm really happy to know that you'll be reading constantly! I will update more just for you.

    The background pic is just a theme that came with the blog when we set it up. I just thought it was a cool picture!

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  4. I noticed the background picture as well! That's pretty funny, good choice on it =). I'm a little confused, the gothic basilica had a ladder going to the top? Not a staircase? Or am I taking the word ladder way to literal?
    SO great that you are writing. Thanks for taking the time! Keep it up!! PS I saw a Kindle at Target and started laughing ;)

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  5. I'm retarded and getting used to this blog follower thing... Just in case my above comment still says Nickname Unavailable. Damn technology of the 21st century that I still can't get used to...

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  6. Kristina - Thanks for the second comment, coz I was indeed totally confused by the lack of name on the first one. Haha.

    The basilica had stairs going to the top floor, but then it had these enormous towers that went above the roof. So to climb to the top of these, you had to walk across a plank that went on top of the roof, and then up ladders on the sides of the towers (literally). Terrifying!

    So glad that you're reading! :D More to come soon.

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